How to Paint a Dresser: The Beginner’s Furniture Flip Guide

Old solid-wood furniture is often better built than new flat-pack pieces — it just looks tired. Painting it is a rewarding, low-risk first project.

Materials

Degreaser or sugar soap, sponges
Wood filler, putty knife
Orbital sander or sanding block; 120, 180 and 220 grit
Bonding or stain-blocking primer (shellac-based blocks bleed-through from wood tannins)
Paint: furniture/cabinet enamel, or chalk-style paint plus wax or topcoat
Quality synthetic brush and small foam roller
Water-based clear topcoat (for high-wear surfaces)
New knobs or pulls (optional)

Remove drawers and hardware. Put screws in labeled bags.
Clean every surface — furniture carries years of polish and hand grease that stop paint from sticking.
Repair: glue loose joints, fill dents and holes. If you're changing hardware with different hole spacing, fill the old holes now.
Sand with 120 grit to scuff the old finish (you don't need to strip to bare wood), then 180. Vacuum and wipe with a damp cloth.
Prime. One coat of bonding or stain-blocking primer. Sand lightly with 220 when dry.
Paint two or three thin coats, rolling large flat areas and brushing details, always finishing in the direction of the grain. Sand very lightly with 220 between coats.
Topcoat the top surface (and ideally everything) with a water-based clear coat for durability.
Cure. Paint may be dry to touch in hours but needs days (sometimes weeks) to fully harden. Use it gently for the first week.
Add hardware and line the drawers with paper or fabric for a finishing touch.

Furniture made before the late 1970s may have lead-based paint. Test before sanding old painted finishes, and always wear a dust mask when sanding.

Two-tone: painted body, natural wood top.
Color-drenched: body and hardware in the same muted shade (sage, clay, navy).
Cane or rattan: replace drawer fronts panels with cane webbing for a boho look.