DIY Upholstered Headboard: A Hotel Look for a Fraction of the Price

Difficulty

Beginner

Time

1 day

Cost

Low–Medium

An upholstered headboard instantly makes a bedroom feel finished. This version is wall-mounted, which means no legs to line up with the bed frame and a perfectly level, floating look.

Materials

• 1/2 in (12 mm) plywood or MDF cut to size — typically bed width plus 4–6 in (10–15 cm), 24–36 in (60–90 cm) tall
• 2 in (5 cm) upholstery foam, spray adhesive
• Polyester batting
• Upholstery fabric (velvet, linen, bouclé) — measure board plus 6 in (15 cm) on each side
• Staple gun and staples, scissors, marker
• French cleat (two strips of wood cut at 45°, or a metal cleat) and screws

Simple padded headboard

1. Round the top corners with a jigsaw if you like a softer shape. Sand the edges.
2. Glue the foam to the board with spray adhesive (outdoors or well ventilated). Trim flush.
3. Lay the batting on the floor, board foam-side down on top. Wrap and staple at the back, starting at the center of each side and working out.
4. Repeat with the fabric, keeping it taut and the grain straight. Fold corners like wrapping a present and staple neatly.
5. Staple a piece of plain fabric over the back for a clean finish (optional).

Channel-tufted version

Instead of one foam sheet, glue strips of foam (e.g. 6 in / 15 cm wide) vertically with small gaps between them. Wrap the fabric and push it into each gap, securing with staples or a thin strip of wood screwed from behind. The result is the popular channel look.

Mounting with a French cleat

1. Screw one half of the cleat to the back of the headboard near the top, angle pointing down towards the board.
2. Screw the other half to the wall into at least two studs, angle pointing up and toward the wall, perfectly level.
3. Lift the headboard and drop it onto the wall cleat — it locks itself tight to the wall.
4. Add a spacer strip at the bottom of the headboard so it hangs vertically.